Schaffhausen by Bike: Through Switzerland’s Pinot Noir Heartland

By Marc Checkley

Though Switzerland's winemaking history stretches back centuries, its six wine regions remain among Europe's best-kept secrets. Beyond the country's Alpine adventures and city escapes lies another side, one measured in vineyard rows rather than summit heights.

Northeastern Switzerland, encompassing the cantons of St. Gallen, Thurgau and Schaffhausen, is one of the country's oldest wine-producing areas. It is also one of its most rewarding regions to explore by bicycle. Over three leisurely days, a 130-kilometre cycle route links Lake Constance, the Rhine and the Klettgau Valley, winding through vineyard-covered hills, medieval towns and some of Switzerland's most overlooked wine country.

The journey begins in the city of St. Gallen, home to its UNESCO-listed Cathedral. Heading north, the route soon descends towards Arbon and the shores of Lake Constance, where orchards, vineyards and the expansive blue of the lake create a captivating landscape. Formerly known as the “Swabian Sea”, the lake’s unique microclimate has supported viticulture since Roman times.

Following the lakeside trail for around 50 kilometres, cyclists arrive in Stein am Rhein, one of Switzerland’s most picturesque towns. Sitting at the point where the Rhine flows out of Lake Constance, the town appears almost untouched by time.

Fresco-covered facades line narrow cobbled streets, while the river glides beneath medieval towers and timber-framed buildings. For wine enthusiasts, the area offers plenty to explore. Andreas Florin of Weingut Florin welcomes visitors for tasting experiences, while nearby Weinbau Trutmann and Leibacher Wein continue traditions that stretch back centuries.

Visitors often arrive for the fairytale architecture but leave impressed by the diversity of wines produced here, including Chardonnay, Müller-Thurgau and the increasingly popular Sauvignac. During the summer months, the Gourmet Trail connects vineyards, wineries and restaurants through a self-guided culinary journey that perfectly rounds off the day.

Leaving Stein am Rhein, the route follows the Rhine through peaceful riverside villages before turning inland towards the rolling hills of Klettgau. Here the vineyards become larger, cellar doors more numerous and wine culture increasingly visible.

This is the heart of “Blauburgunderland”, Switzerland’s largest continuous wine-growing region and the spiritual home of Swiss Pinot Noir. The Weinkrone Museum in Hallau provides an excellent introduction to the region’s history and producers, while nearby wineries such as Wunderstaa, Gysel 175, Markus Ruch and Weingut Baumann offer memorable tasting experiences.

For wine lovers, few places in Switzerland offer such a concentration of passionate producers within such a compact area. The region also invites visitors to slow down. Horse-drawn carriage rides through the vineyards provide sweeping views across the valley towards Germany’s Black Forest and offer a welcome change of pace.

A memorable overnight stay awaits at the Weinfass Hotel Rüedi in Trasadingen, where converted wine barrels serve as unique guest rooms.

The final day begins among the vines and heads towards the village of Osterfingen. Here, Bad Osterfingen, housed in a beautifully preserved 15th-century villa, combines award-winning wines with seasonal cuisine. The estate’s Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc are among the highlights, making it a popular destination for both locals and visitors.

Soon afterwards, the trail rejoins the Rhine and leads to one of Europe’s most famous natural attractions: the Rhine Falls. Stretching more than 150 metres across and plunging 23 metres, it is the largest waterfall in Europe.

One of the most memorable ways to experience the falls is during the summer “Schiff & Wein” cruise. Over the course of two hours, guests enjoy regional wines, local cheeses and charcuterie while sailing along the Rhine. As the boat approaches the base of the falls, the journey culminates in a dramatic and unforgettable finale.

This journey is defined not by demanding mountain passes or dramatic climbs, but by quiet discovery at a gentler pace. From the vineyards of Stein am Rhein to the Pinot Noir cellars of Hallau and the waters of the Rhine on their journey towards the North Sea, this corner of Switzerland offers a compelling alternative to the classic Alpine experience.

More than a cycling itinerary, it is an invitation to discover Switzerland’s wine regions from a fresh and invigorating perspective.