Small Swiss winemakers make it big at the Blaue Ente

Alex Hannemann, how did you get into wine?

My fascination began early: I knew I wanted to work in the hotel industry when I was just twelve years old. At the time, I didn't know that hospitality and gastronomy were two different fields. At home, we always had wine with good food, often Bordeaux. Through my job, and especially during my 15 years with René Zimmermann in Neumarkt, a stronghold for Swiss wine, this became a real passion. That's where I learned to love Swiss wine.

How involved are you in selecting wines for the Blaue Ente?

Very closely. I taste everything we serve myself beforehand. I travel a lot in Switzerland, always on the lookout for new winemakers. I also spend almost all my holidays in wine-growing regions – not only is the wine good there, but the food is also better than anywhere else.

What is your philosophy when it comes to selecting wines?

The focus is clearly on Swiss wine. We are in Zurich, so we offer a wide selection of Lake Zurich wines: Räuschling, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and many more. At the same time, every region of Switzerland should be represented on our list. I taste a lot, compare blind and decide based on quality, not name or status. I find young winemakers with fresh approaches particularly exciting.

How do your guests react to lesser-known grape varieties or regions?

Some are overwhelmed by our wine list because it doesn't feature many big names. But once they trust my advice, guests are very open. I like to bring them three different bottles: a classic, a familiar one and one that's a little freaky. The surprise wines are surprisingly well received, especially when I don't say anything about them beforehand. Then it's all about the taste.

So personal contact is essential.

And time. I've been in the restaurant business for over 20 years now. It's about listening, experiencing and trust. Many guests say today: ‘Mr Hannemann, surprise us.’ That's a wonderful compliment.

Let's talk about Œil de Perdrix. What makes this rosé made from Pinot Noir grapes so special to you?

It's a classic, and the Blaue Ente is a classic restaurant – so it's a perfect match. I like that its name comes from the colour of a partridge's eye. It's a wine from the Neuchâtel region with a history, which makes it emotional.

How would you describe Œil de Perdrix in a few words?

Fresh, fruity, but also with depth. Œil de Perdrix is an ideal accompaniment to food, especially in summer: I like it with vitello tonnato, salad or chicken in tarragon sauce.

Are there still prejudices against Swiss wine?

Yes, definitely. Some guests reject it at first. Then I pour a blind tasting – perhaps a Sauvignon Blanc from Lake Zurich – and let the wine speak for itself. The surprise is often great. Many people are unaware of the diversity of Swiss wines: Petite Arvine, Cornalin, Bondola, Humagne Rouge – there is so much to discover! It is my job to open these doors.

What is the best moment for you as a host?

When I sense that I have inspired someone and they say, ‘I didn't expect that.’ Then I know we've done our job well. In a city like Zurich, there are countless restaurants. We want to stand out by making people feel at home and through genuine, honest enthusiasm for our products.

How do you see the future of Swiss wine?

Very positive. People are drinking more consciously, want to hear stories and experience new things. The personality of winemakers is becoming more important, also through social media. Topics such as biodiversity, natural wine and orange wine are continuing to develop. Even if not everything is for everyone, the potential remains huge. What I would like to see is more convincing alcohol-free alternatives. The demand is there, but the flavour often lacks depth.

And you remain curious?

Absolutely. I'm constantly discovering new things and thinking to myself, ‘Oh, I know so little about Geneva,’ or ‘I'm missing a Pinot from that region.’ If I could, I would have 200 more Swiss wines on the list. Switzerland has an incredible wine universe – we just need to show it off.