A host with taste: Markus Duner focuses on Swiss diversity

Markus Duner, what makes the Ziegelhütte such a special place?

The Ziegelhütte is more than just a restaurant. In addition to our pub with a farmhouse parlour and garden restaurant, we have a beer garden, a hall, a bowling alley and several smaller gardens. From wedding celebrations to punk concerts, anything is possible here. This diversity is what makes the place so appealing – and attracts an equally diverse crowd.

What is the culinary concept?

We serve Swiss classics such as Zürcher Geschnetzeltes, Cordon Bleu and sausage and cheese salad. We are proud of our culinary calendar featuring Alpsau-Metzgete and red game. The seasonal dishes are often combined with an exotic twist or a surprising detail from our own herb garden or the nearby forest. And we have a close partnership with the nearby organic farm.

What role does wine play in this concept?

Swiss wine has been the focus from the very beginning, and that remains the case today. The wine list also includes wines from the Alpine region, such as Austria and northern Italy, but Swiss wines remain at the heart of the selection. In the red wine category in particular, we focus strongly on Pinot Noir in its various forms.

Pinot Noir seems to be particularly close to your heart. Why is that?

Because it is elegant and complex. The grape variety wonderfully reflects the characteristics of the region and the winemaking process. I used to enjoy drinking Bordeaux, but today I find Pinot Noir much more fascinating. It is honest, reduced to the essentials, and when it manages to develop depth and complexity, I find that very impressive.

Is there a Swiss region you would particularly recommend?

In the past, it was definitely the Bündner Herrschaft. But today there are also excellent Pinots from Lake Zurich, Thurgau, Schaffhausen, and Lake Biel. Many winemakers have made enormous strides in recent years – partly due to climate change.

How do your guests like Pinot Noir?

Sometimes it takes a bit of persuasion. Many people spontaneously say, ‘I don't like Pinot Noir.’ These are often old prejudices. But acceptance has undoubtedly increased. Twenty or thirty years ago, it was very different.

Another Swiss classic is Müller-Thurgau – what do you think of it?

To be honest, I was rather sceptical for a long time. But there are exciting exceptions, such as a Müller-Thurgau from the amphora in Klettgau or an astonishingly elegant Riesling x Madeleine Royal from the acacia wood in Aargau. Nevertheless, I personally prefer a pure Riesling, a Sauvignon Blanc or sometimes a more mature Chasselas.

How important is the interplay between food and wine to you?

I take a rather relaxed view of this. Many things go well together – a white wine can be wonderful with meat, and a red wine can also be served with fish. For me, it's essential that the acids complement each other well. But I also think you should drink what you feel like drinking.

Are your guests more open to Swiss wines today than they used to be?

Yes, definitely. Awareness of quality has increased. The challenge remains the price-performance ratio. Those who draw the line at 60 or 70 francs will often find a wider selection of foreign wines. But Swiss wines are absolutely on a par in terms of quality.

How do you think the Swiss wine scene will develop?

I'm confident. Experimentation will continue, including with new grape varieties – although that takes time. A new wine doesn't happen overnight. But the scene is lively, and many young producers are bringing new ideas to the table. There's still a lot to come, especially in the red wine sector.