From prejudice to discovery: how the guild innkeeper got his guests excited about Swiss wine

Fabian Reinhardt, is Swiss wine more of a professional or personal interest for you?

Both. Professionally, definitely – a lot has changed in the restaurant industry in recent years in terms of openness towards Swiss wine. Guests are perhaps more familiar with international classics from Bordeaux or Burgundy. And then they discover wonderful Pinot Noirs from Switzerland and love them. But I also find it exciting in my private life to get to know winemakers, go on wine tours and try new things – even within Switzerland.

What do you think are the reasons for this change?

On the one hand, quality has improved significantly, partly thanks to new grape varieties and modern viticulture methods. On the other hand, many guests feel a stronger need for regionality. I myself hardly buy any foreign white wines anymore, as the selection in Switzerland is simply outstanding.

Is this also reflected in your wine list at the Zunfthaus zur Waag?

Yes, definitely. I took over the restaurant two and a half years ago and have since increased the focus on Swiss wine. We still offer a wide range of international wines, but I really enjoy recommending local wines to our guests.

How do you select the wines for your restaurant?

Zurich is central to me: the proximity and personal connection to the winemakers are what count. I also pay attention to variety and pricing. It's important to me to highlight regional specialities. In Valais, for example, I prefer to choose local varieties rather than another Pinot Noir. This results in a varied list that reflects the country.

One example of a regional classic is Gamay from Geneva. What appeals to you about this variety?

Gamay is exciting because it is little known in Zurich. Geneva is generally underrated, even though it is a large wine-growing region. Gamay has character, but is not too heavy. Served slightly chilled, it goes wonderfully with summer dishes or fish – especially if someone doesn't feel like white wine.

Do you recommend wine according to classic rules or more by feel?

I'm not a fan of rigid rules; in the end, personal taste is what counts. If someone prefers red wine with fish, we look for something suitable from our selection. You just have to make sure that the wine and food are well-matched in terms of weight. A heavy wine rarely works well with a light dish.

Do you sometimes encounter scepticism about Swiss wine?

Occasionally – especially among older guests who still have negative memories of the past. Back then, quantity was often more important than quality in winegrowing. But this scepticism also offers opportunities: if I can surprise a Burgundy fan with a Swiss Chardonnay, it's a real sense of achievement. It's all about convincing people with quality, and we have more than enough of that today.

What about at home, what do you drink in your private life?

I'm always trying new things. There's hardly a week when I drink the same wine twice. When I'm in a region, I also drink something from there. That's how you get to know local specialities, which is what I find so appealing.

What are your hopes for the future of Swiss wine?

I hope that the high quality is maintained and that the variety of grape varieties continues to develop. Climate change presents us with challenges – whether Piwi grapes (fungus-resistant grape varieties) are the solution remains to be seen. It is important that Swiss wine remains competitive, also in terms of price.

Do you already use Piwi wines?

Yes, I find the topic very exciting, especially in the white wine sector. I am closely monitoring developments and always have one or two Piwis on the menu.